On Mexican Cacao And Family Creativity: Ashley Ugarte of Hijita
Today, we’re chatting with one of The Front Market’s Fall 2022 vendors, Ashley Ugarte of Hijita.
✰ ABOUT ASHLEY UGARTE
“Growing up, I dreamed of becoming a chef, but it took me until after graduating college to go for it finally. So in 2016, I uprooted my life in Texas to pursue a culinary career in the Bay Area, hoping to fuse my passion for food and sustainable agriculture into a career. Chocolate ended up being the perfect marriage of those two things. I got my start as a pastry cook at Dandelion Chocolate, a single-origin bean-to-bar chocolate company in San Francisco, where I eventually worked my way up to head chocolatier, leading their award-winning confections program. Now, I run Hijita!”
Q: Why did you decide to start your own business?
A: After working at Dandelion for four years, I knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life working in chocolate, but something was missing. I felt a calling to move back home to Texas to be closer to my family and connect my work back to my Mexican heritage. It was my curiosity about Mexican cacao and the relationship our culture has with chocolate that motivated me to start my own business. Inspired by the patience, dedication, and care that regenerative farmers put into their craft, I wanted my work to impact them directly, honor them, and showcase all that Mexican cacao has to offer.
Q: What’s your personal favorite Hijita product?
A: It’s a tie between the horchata truffle bar and the chocolate de mesa con canela. Both are inspired by two of my favorite drinks growing up. It wasn’t summer without an ice-cold horchata, and a comfy cup of Abuelita hot chocolate always accompanied the holidays. In a way, chocolate is my medium to share these nostalgic childhood memories with others. Seeing the expression on someone’s face as they taste my products - that moment where they’re almost going back in time, reaching for a memory—that’s everything to me.
Q: How has your craft impacted your relationship with your culture?
A: My sister and I grew up fully immersed in our Mexican culture thanks to our mom. She made sure we learned her native tongue and visited our Abuelita and family in México often. Yet even with this close connection to México, working with Mexican cacao has allowed me to see a country I’ve known my whole life entirely differently. We grew up drinking Abuelita hot chocolate and champurrado, especially during the holidays, without ever knowing much about the origins of these traditions. Through my work, I’ve learned much about the rich history of pre-Columbian cocoa-based beverages across México, like tejate from Oaxaca, popo from Veracruz, pozol from Chiapas and Tabasco, and so much more. Through Hijita, I hope to amplify the indigenous origins of Mexican cacao culture and become a place where people feel connected to and proud of their roots.
Q: What are your goals for Hijita in 2023?
A: I’m looking forward to continuing to foster a community around Mexican chocolate by building upon new partnerships with local Latinx individuals, makers, and organizations who align with Hijita’s mission and vision. I dream of having a chocolate factory and cafe where people can experience Mexican chocolate to the fullest, so I will work very hard this year to achieve that goal.
Q: Do you have any advice for creatives looking to start their own small business?
A: I remind myself repeatedly, “Progress over perfection.” I’m sure many creatives can relate to the paralyzing effects of perfectionism, which leads to self-doubt and fear before sharing our work. If I regret one thing, it’s not putting out my work sooner. Start creating and collecting feedback before you think you’re ready. When you put out a product that feeds your soul, that passion will come through in your product and will resonate with the right people.
Q: Our latest market theme was “Metaphorical Community Garden.” What does this mean to you?
A: As an entrepreneur, it can be very easy to work 24/7 with no time to nurture our relationship with ourselves and others. But, I’ve realized that, much like the natural world, a biodynamic community garden is more resilient and robust than a monoculture. It takes a lot to build a business. Still, it’s just as important to focus on fostering collaboration and partnerships with individuals and organizations who align with our mission and values. Nurturing these relationships can lead to more prosperous communities better equipped to achieve their shared goals and objectives.
